We thought we’d start a series of reviews that we think you might find interesting. And we’ll start big: with the V60 in Wonderland coffee brewing set by young Czech designer Lukáš Novák. We’ve been using it for over a week now, and we’re ready to give you a thumbs up or a thumbs down on it. So what’s it going to be? Does it work well? Is it a good gift? Read on.
First, a disclaimer: Lukáš Novák, the designer, is a friend of ours. Lukáš gave us the set to try and tell him what we think. So while there is some bias here, you should also know that Jan has an allergy to hype and values your money as much as his. So here’s Jan take:
Who’s Lukáš Novák
So first some background. Lukáš Novák is a Czech glass and ceramics designer that has created quite a bit of buzz by working with some big names in the industry - especially his work for Rückl, with whom he created a beautiful Absinthe glass or a celebratory bottle for Pilsner Urquell, has been a huge success. He is also one of the nicest people we know… and not at all bad to look at, if you don’t mind us saying. No, really, and all around nice guy, and talented, too.
With the coffee set, he ventured into the world of borosilicate glass (read „laboratory glass“) by joining forces with Simax, a Czech company that is the biggest producer of laboratory glass in the world, processing over 220 tons of glass a day. The thing with borosilicate glass is that you can „shape it in your hands“, as Lukáš describes it.
What is it
Anyway, we have received the whole shebang - two glass cups, the decanter and the dripper. They all come in a neat cardboard box. The dripper is Lukáš’s take on the Hario V60 dripper, the 02 size. The decanter takes, I’d say, about a liter of coffee when full, but feels smaller than a Chemex, for instance, because it does not need the top part of Chemex’ convex shape. It’s a good size that feels good in your hands.
It’s difficult to describe the aesthetics of the pieces, which are perfectly matched to each other. I think the word is „crumbled“. Imagine if the set was made of chocolate and then left in a car on a hot day for an hour. And then you take a piece in your hand, you realise you’ve bent one side with your fingers and as you try to save the day, you begin to „level“ all the other shapes with your hands, in reality bending them even further. And that’s how the set looks - all the shapes are slightly bent and distorted, as if moulded in hand. Oh yeah, and the set is very light, and the edges of the glasses are round and a bit thicker, which makes for a nice drinking experience.
The bad
(EDIT: After our initial review below, we have been given an updated version of the dripper, which does resolve the main clogging issue to a considerable degree, reducing the brewing time.)
Now, I will tell you what the problem is. And it is a real problem… if you are a bit nerdy about coffee. So if you don’t know what „extraction“ means in the context of coffee, feel free to skip this. The problem is the dripper - it is a bit… uhhh… convex? Which means that the paper does not fully align with the sides and sits at the bottom drain, unsupported. When you brew the coffee, the filter works a bit like a plug - it clogs the flow of brewed coffee, meaning that the coffee fills the bottom of the dripper, clogging the flow even further. It helps if you lift the filter up by the sides from now and then to drain the coffee, but it’s a bit of a drag. You shouldn’t have to do that.
As a result, you get longer extraction times. With my set up and using a Hario V60, I usually aim for a 4-minute brew time. With the same set up but Lukáš’s dripper, I get about a 6-minute brew time, which is about what I get from a Chemex, no matter how hard I try. Now, before fainting baristas start writing angry comments about these times, let me be clear here: I know my technique sucks, but I am a coffee drinker and not a barista, and I’ve learnt to make coffee at home that I personally like, so deal with it.
So you get a longer brew time, meaning higher extraction. That said, I liked every cup of coffee I made through this, so maybe it’s just a nuisance having to spend two extra minutes to brew coffee, and having to lift that filter up quite often. (I also thought of maybe using a Chemex filter inside, hoping that the thicker filter will retain its structure a bit more maybe?) One thing’s clear: the product shows that Lukáš is an artist first, and an industrial designer… ehhh… third or fourth. If you’re a serious coffee nerd, this may be - and probably will be - a show stopper for you. If you’re not, maybe it’s not a big deal. I am on the fence on this one.
The good
Having said that, and while confessing that it was frustrating to use the dripper at first, I have found myself using Lukáš’s brewer every single time over the good old Hario V60 that was sitting right next to it.
The thing is… the whole V60 in Wonderland package is just really beautiful and a pure joy to use in your hands, and drink coffee from the cups. I am not sure what it is, but it is hard to stop using it once you start - I’ve seen my coffee consumption increase just to use the damn thing. It’s like an old episode of Top Gear I remember where they tested three comparable convertibles and all agreed that the technically worst car - the Alfa Romeo Brera - was the car they all liked the best. There’s just something about it. It’s like playing football in Prada sneakers. You may have to adjust your technique a bit, but you sure liloveke wearing those sneakers.
Should you buy one?
That depends. If you buy it for your barista boyfriend who has a bushy beard and a La Marzocco tattoo on his forearm, he will probably use it a few times to make you happy and then quietly start using his old brewer.
But if you just like to make - and drink - coffee at home and like nice things, it is a really nice gift for someone you love or for yourself. It is beautiful. Not in a way Chemex is beautiful though: I love Chemex for its simplicity and no-nonsense industrial design. It is a beautiful thing because the aesthetics are streamlined and utilitarian. Lukáš’s coffee set is beautiful like a piece of art that you can use. There are probably easier ways to make coffee. But there sure aren’t more beautiful ways to make coffee than this.
The V60 in Wonderland is… pricy. But then again, beautiful objects tend to be. Is it worth it for you? That is a questions only you can answer. Me personally, I am putting Lukáš’s number in my banned list because despite all the criticisms, I ain’t giving this thing back.
[Photo taken from lukasnovak.org]