Letná district is arguably one of the sought after places to live in Prague. Located just across the river from the busy historical centre, you’re near it all if you want, but not in the middle of it all if you don’t. Nestled in between two parks, the Letenský park and the Stromovka, the area is great for families: there’s always somewhere to go or something to do, and far from traffic, too. And the locals create a lively, healthy community who care about the neighbourhood, having elected an entirely independent candidate of a purely local movement its mayor, and often contesting local zoning decisions.
Today, Letná is known for its relative affluence, a Bohemian feel with lots of art-related spots, incl. the National Gallery or the Academy of Fine Arts, and a plethora of independent galleries. It is also a living gallery of the ubiquitous 1930s Constructivist buildings, bearing witness to the district’s boom in the years between the two world wars.
Due to its proximity, the parks, the food and the galleries, Letná is the ideal choice if you want to see something outside of the centre and just browse a few streets with the locals. Last but not least, Letná is the neighborhood of our awesome Prague rental apartment (if you’re reading this from the apartment now - because we set this as the load page on the computer's browser - welcome in Prague!).
Now, we have suggested a cool walk from Letná to the Holesovice district a while ago on this blog, but we thought Letná needed a closer look. Here’s our small guide to the neighborhood.
Where to stay in Letná?
We’re so glad you asked. We know a place. Our rental apartment just right next to the Bio Oko cinema is located in a listed Czech Constructivist (we call it “functionalist”) building from the late 1930s and the interiors benefit from the light constructivist architects so generously let in their creations: the window panes really go from wall to wall, and the ambiance is airy and light. We have refurbished the apartment in 2014 with the girls of the SMLXL studio to make sure the apartment is welcoming, comfortable and practical at the same time. The bed and sofa/bed are custom made for the apartment and the walls are decorated by a large map of the Letná by the duo of Tomski & Polanski. The apartment also comes with our curated tips for the neighborhood and Prague in general. Really the best place to stay in Prague in our mind. And we’re obviously unbiased here.
(Covid note: our apartment is currently rented out long-term until early 2022. Please feel free to enquire about short-term rentals for the summer of 2022. Thank you!)
Okay okay, it’s only fair to mention another great place to stay in Letná, and we’ll allow it if our apartment is booked. The Mamashelter opened its Prague location in late summer 2018 right next to the National Gallery’s Trade Palace. And you know what? We like Mamashelter - they tend to have nice rooftop bars, although not in Prague. And they are fun, inexpensive and in interesting locations. Bonus points: the Prague Mamashelter occupies a beautiful Brutalist building of the former Parkhotel and the remodeling has been quite respectful of the original, while still retaining that playfulness Mamashelter hotels are known for. Zuzi’s brother stayed there over the Christmas holidays and loved it. We footed the bill and did not go bankrupt. Win win.
What to see in Letná?
Letná beer garden
Probably the nicest beer garden in town (although not the biggest - that trophy goes to the Riegrovy sady park) that has a great, neighborly feel. You should see this place on the first nice day of spring: people just flock in to get some beer, catch the first rays of warm sunshine, and let the great view of the Old Town sink in. This is a happy, friendly place where people consume beer behind small communal tables, play Pétanque and just soak in the atmosphere. Are the beers any good? Well, that’s beside the point here, really. There are other places for great beer around the town. This is about relaxing and having fun in a beautiful setting.
Bio Oko
Bio Oko is one of the funnest places in Letná, if not the entire town: a 1930s cinema that is now run by the people behind Bio Aero, a network of Prague’s independent cinemas. The bar of the cinema (which doubles as our apartment’s reception desk, really) attracts younger locals for a drink, coffee and some snacks, and the party often spills into the street outside of the cinema. They do have a surprisingly good selection of craft beers and mostly natural wines supplied by Marko, a.k.a. Winegeek, one of the wine scene personalities who were choosing their favorite wines in Prague for our blog a while ago. And their selection of movies is not bad either, and if the original audio is English, just disregard the subtitles. You can sit in the regular chairs in the back, or in the beach chairs in the front. Either way it’s fine with us.
National Technical Museum, National Agricultural Museum
Getting into the National Technical Museum is like getting back in time to our childhood: we absolutely adored that place when we were kids. But the exhibition is a testament to the wealth and the technical prowess of the Czechs and Slovaks in the First Republic: we really did build just about anything back then. The building itself is a fantastic structure finished in the 1940s. The strict and smile-less staff can act like they run a work camp at times, though. Don’t let them spoil the fun. Just like many locals, we’ve been to the National Agricultural Museum in the twin building next door much less often than the National Technical Museum. That said, it is a fantastic institution that shows some amazing exhibitions. Make sure you visit the small zoo of farm animals behind the building! Cuteness turned to eleven. Yay!
National Gallery’s Trade Palace
They say Le Corbusier was fuming when he saw the pictures of the Trade Fair Palace completed in 1928: while he was designing on paper, Czechs were actually building things. Today, in its form after the 1974 fire, it is home to the National Gallery’s collection of modern arts that includes works by Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh and others. The place is stunning in its simplicity and discipline. We like especially the small patio to the right of the entry that connects all the floors. Kafe Jedna on the ground floor is not a bad place to spend a few minutes, either. Too bad the roof still remains inaccessible with some exceptions.
Prague 7 Municipal Council
Nothing special there, unless you walk to the fourth floor to see how a local tax office looks like here in the Czech Republic, or you want to see some uninspired canteens on the ground floor. What we come here for is the paternoster elevators we wrote about a while ago on our blog. Take a ride for free, and if you’re brave enough, take the bottom loop, too!
Expo 58
One of our favorite buildings in Prague, the Expo 58 looks like a secret layer from a 60s Bond movie or North by Northwest. Originally the restaurant for the Czechoslovak exhibition at the 58 World Expo in Brussels, this Mid-Century Modern building was de-assembled, transported to Prague and built again at the bottom of the Letná park, where it served as a luxury restaurant and bar. It was abandoned up until the 1990s when it was refurbished and became a seat of an advertising agency. It still is one of the coolest buildings in Prague, and the terrace in front of it is one of the nicest places to enjoy the view of the city.
Metronome
The top of the hill above the Cechuv most bridge has a rich history: originally supposed to be dug out for an extension of the Parizska street, it later housed an enormous statue of Stalin, and a slightly less enormous statue of Michael Jackson. (Really. Google it.) Today it is known as the “Metronome”, based on the red mechanical metronome built for the 1991 State Fair. It is also one of the most popular skate parks in Prague and the perfect place to bask in the view of the Old Town and to enter the Letná park, one of the most popular parks here, and one of our favorite jogging destinations in Prague. Make sure you check out the program of the very popular Stalin Containall space nested right in front of it (think pop-ups, DJs and so on).
Alfred ve dvore
Fancy a modern theatre performance? Alfred ve dvore in the Frantiska Krizka street, just a block away from the Bio Oko cinema, is a must-visit then. The stage invites modern artists to show of their newest performances or site-specific shows. Definitely worth checking their program during your stay.
Berlínskej model
The tiniest gallery in the city is home to some occasional exhibitions of young Czech and foreign visual artists, but Berlínskej model also focuses on site-specific installations tailored specifically to the size of this gallery. And often it is just a nice visual surprise when you walk by on your way to the subway stop.
Polansky gallery
Polansky Gallery tries to bring the best modern arts to an art gallery in the courtyard of a building near one of the busiest streets of Prague. A piece of calm right next to hundreds of cars daily creates a nice contrast and backdrop to the art inside.
Nadace a Centrum pro současné umění
This artistic hub is just at the start of this journey, but it already houses the library of the Centre for Contemporary Art, an organisation originally supported by grants from Mr Soros. So far, the former bakery building is mostly known as the seat of Acid Coffee.
Holešovice cemetery
We know this sounds weird, but we like a nice cemetery. The cemetery in Letná just behind the Mamashelter hotel is pretty small, but it’s one of our favorites in town: it is dramatically sloped and divided into smaller sections that all look intimate and serene. A great place for a bit of rest and contemplation.
Stromovka
Not exactly Letná, sure, but you’d be missing out if you visited the district and not enter the biggest - and after the recent changes, we dare say the most beautiful - park in Prague. A great place for a picnic on a warm Sunday, as local families chill under the trees and jog around.
Where to have coffee in Letná?
Format Coffee
The Covid years were suspiciously generous to Letná when it comes to coffee. Format Coffee, by Jackie Tran, the owner of mazelab coffee and Cafe Fin, was one of the last coffee shops to hit the district, but it’s become one of our favourite, too. The space is tiny but beautifuly decorated, as you’d expect from Jackie. The Format Coffee brand is now also expanding into roasting, which will be done over at mazelab coffee. Anyway, combined with Praktika across the road, this is one of the winners.
Café Hrnek
Open during the Covid year at the otherwise busy and uninspired Veletržní street, Café Hrnek has quickly become one of the popular neighborhood spots. The coffee is generally delicious and at times uses less known roasters from abroad, and the baking is solid. It is also one of the few places where you can get specialty coffee in a proper Blue Onion design pottery. With the hiring of one of the members of the Ze mě projekt, the lunches and snacks are suddently becoming interesting.
Cafe Letka
Coffee shops don’t come much more beautiful than Cafe Letka, a beautifully run-down space attached to the Pidivadlo theatre in the shadow of the National Technical Museum. The run-down yet colourful interiors and the old wooden tables scream Instagram likes. The menu includes espresso, breakfasts, sandwiches, small snacks and cakes. On a sunny day, this is a place where you could spend hours working or just hanging around. Insane hours means this is your place if you crave an espresso just before midnight.
Ye’s Kafe/Studio
Letná, a dry land when it came to specialty coffee a few years ago, has now so much choice when it comes good coffee it would take days to go through them. But the first true hipster coffee shop (think refurbished coffee machine, vegan menu, events with DJs and so on) was undoubtedly Ye’s Kafe/Studio. Located on the Letenske namesti sq, this one is hard to miss.
Letec Espresso Bar
It’s funny that a little espresso bar that reminds us of Berlin (given the atmosphere and the choice of coffee beans by the Berlin-based Five Elephant) should be located in an area known as… Little Berlin. Anyway, the main attraction here is the baking: their kolache are arguably the best in town, and their buns may look burnt but they’re in fact beautifully fluffy and moist on the inside. Is it a miracle? You must judge for yourselves. Oh, and the coffee’s great, too. A perfect place to finish off your Saturday visit to the Heřmaňák market.
Pilot Café
Did Letná need another specialty coffee shop? Apparently it did, since Pilot Café became very popular immediately after opening. This is one cosy café with great coffee and a nice selection of cakes. Great to get some work done, or just read a book, but it can get lively.
Acid Coffee
Occupying the ground floor of the Centre for Contemporary Arts, Acid Coffee, one of the youngest coffee shops in the district, has been opened by some seasoned baristas, and they seem to have quite a bit of fun with it. Really bright colors and branding, and DJ sets and a great outdoor seating area.
Kolektor Café
Following in the footsteps of the now defunct Café Jedna, Kolektor occupies the enormous ground floor od the National Gallery’s Trade Palace (you’d be hard-pressed to find a coffee shop with higher ceiling) but adds craft beers to specialty coffee. Unique environment and great coffee and beers? Sign us up.
Kafe omylem and Dos Mundos
Boy, you don’t need to go far these days to get your coffee fix. Just the Milady Horákové street is filled with at least three specialty coffee places within the span of a few street blocks. Dos Mundos serves coffee by the eponymous roaster located in the Vinohrady district, along with a few snacks. Extra points for cute suspended seats, if you’re into that thing. Kafe omylem has replaces Sólista as the smallest and cutest espresso bar on the block. The perfect mix with pastries from Erhart Cafe nearly next door.
Cukrárna Alchymista
Cukrárna Alchymista near the Sparta football stadium boasts arguably the most beautiful backyards of any cafe in Prague, the perfect place to enjoy a cup of coffee and some cheesecake, which they can do really well. (The cheesecake. The coffee, while very well prepared, is a wee bit too dark for us still.)
Kavárna Pod Lipami
The Pod Lipami café is probably the most beautiful of all the cafes falling into the Mamacoffee empire. The single room is simple and dominated by art on the walls. A quiet, serene place that is great for a long read, although we prefer their cold drinks over the coffee. Also, it does not hurt that the cafe is located in one of the most beautiful streets in Prague, the leafy Cechova street.
Where to eat in Letná
Bistro 8
The breakfast place of choice for our apartment guests. Bistro 8 serves food all day to all the hungry creative people surrounded around the Veverkova street scene. The food is like eating at home: one time it’s great, another time… ahem… it’s okay. But it’s easy to forget the imperfections in a friendly and open atmosphere and an interior that is inspired, cheap but fun. This is the kind of place where you feel like a regular after only a few visits.
Lokál Nad Stromovkou
Another location of the Lokal pub has turned a classic local pub into another well-oiled machine of a Czech establishment. And Jan is of the opinion that the Letná location, located right next to the Stromovka park and embellished with forestry and hunting-themed elements, is the most beautiful of all Lokáls. Great Pilsner from the tank and classic Czech pub dishes go really well together. The atmosphere can get very lively and regularly spills on to the street and the park on a hot summer night.
Mr Hot Dog
Mr Hot Dog in the Kamenicka street is a local institution that draws crowds from near and afar. The interiors are reminiscent of similar venues in London, and the hot dogs are delicious. The real hidden gem is their beef slider with bacon (btw, since when did we start calling small burgers “sliders”, and why?), one of the best bites of Letná… and the whole city for sure. Secret tip: the panko-breaded and fried onion rings, if they have them, and the generally awesome weekend specials. A great stop on your way from one park to the other. Make sure to book ahead - this place can get hopelessly full 5 milliseconds after they open.
Pipca
Rotisserie chicken was the new black of 2018, and Pipca (still not sure whether it should be pronounced “piptcha” or “pipka”) was opened just weeks after the hyped Grils/Bufet in the Karlin district. The place caused a fairly substantial online discussion whether your hipster chicken should be organic (Pipca’s is not) but that should not steer your attention from the fact that Pipca’s offerings are actually quite tasty and the interiors are relaxed and nice.
Praktika Shop
No, Praktika, our favorite bakery in Prague, does not really bake bread in their Letná location: they only resell the breads and other baked stuff made in their far larger Karlín headquarters. That said, we go there more often then we should for bread (our chouice: the spelt with sesame seeds), croissants and the occasional donut. But we often find ourselves buying olive oil, smoked sald or tea and coffee there, because Praktika is simply a brand we trust. Other items for sale: craft beers, organic juices and ciders. Great stuff.
Onigirazu
Yes, the tiny space selling Onigiri to go is super random and slightly weird, but hey, the onigiri are actually quite nice, and you just can’t argue with the idea of two skinny white dudes following a dream and opening an Onigiri place based on getting Japanese cooking masters from the University of YouTube. Can somebody ring up Hollywood? We thing we have a James Franco / Seth Rogen bromance idea. (And yes, we know Seth Rogen ain’t skinny.)
Závitkárna
The Asian roll version of Onigirazu, but with female owners who fell in love with the stuff and began to make their own. Great stuff if you’re in the area, need a quick lunch and Mr Hot Dog is just too heavy for you.
U Houbaře
True story: Jan used to eat at the U Houbaře pub with his dad as a kid in the 80s, after they just visited grandma. (She could not cook a thing and didn’t want to, anyway.) Is this the best cooking in town, or in the district? Oh hell no. But if you want to see what a “proper pub” looks like, and have some cheap Pilsner quick, this is your place to go.
Teplá kačka
Pan Asian restaurants are never a good sign - if your weekly lunch menu is divided into sections like “Thai Monday”, “Chinese Tuesday” up until "Indian Friday”, we usually walk away. But you know what? Teplá kačka is surprisingly capable, and we really like their dim sum and Wonton dumplings, a thing we miss the most in Prague from our travels. So if you crave dim sum and are in the area, Teplá kačka might just be the spot you’re looking food. (Also, check out Dim Sum Spot on Milady Horákové.)
Bon Ramen & Soba
The Letná location of the Vinohrady ramen shop finally brings the Japanese lifesaver to Prague 7 and a breath of fresh air to the part of Letenské náměstí square that is more known for heavy traffic and sleazy 24/7 convenience stores. Great stuff.
Banh Mi Makers
Another business, this time a popular Vietnamese fast food place amd pho shop, opens a location at Letná, showing just how popular and populous the area is. Jan’s favorite is the Bun Bo Hue, but all the other dishes are nice, too. The interior is a step up from your regular pho shop, and there’s a killer children’s area in the back if you need one.
KOSTELNI 16
Arguably the cutest place to eat in Letná, the recently opened Kostelni 16 (the name is the address) serves Mediterranean fare (think Iberico ham, burratinas and seafood) along with grilled meats and fish. The interiors mirror the food: nice, clean, elegant but still fun. A great place to get a copita and some Mediterranean charcuterie to go with it.
Erhart Café
If you get the craving for something sweet while roaming the streets of the Letná district, Erhart Café is probably your best choice. Refurbished to its original 1930s splendor, the rather small pastry shop tries to follow on the tradition of the First Republic original, including the selection of classic pastries you should try: laskonka, kokoska, Sacher torte are all good. The 1930s atmosphere extends to manners: check out the booth for discreet mobile phone calls inside!
Amato
This fairly recent opening in the Kamenicka street has become one of our favorite ice-creams in Prague. No, the interiors of Gelateria Amato are not inspiring, super modern or design-focused, but the ice-cream is solid and will definitely turn that frown upside down. A great supplement to a hot dog, in our view.
Where to drink in Letná
Bar Cobra
Bar Cobra has become so popular since its 2016 opening that the night crowds spilling onto the street have caused the owners to distribute apology leaflets to mailboxes within two blocks, politely asking the residents not to report them to the police. The interiors of the former sleazy slot machine bar are fantastic: a long bar with a nice selection of spirits and cocktails and a fantastic vibe built by the architects of the Edit! studio (responsible for some of the coolest restaurant designs in Prague) sport a system of large windows that open to the street, which is a godsend on a summer day. This is a place that will make you happy all day with hearty breakfasts, good coffee and cocktails in the evening. If you’re over 40 and walk in past 10pm, you’ll either feel very cool, or very old.
Winegeek
We will not lie to you: Marko Jelic, the owner and face of Winegeek, is our good friend. But his reputation of one of the primary suppliers and importers of natural wines from the Czech Republic and Central Europe well predates our friendship. His shop on Řezáčovo náměstí square is cute and well stocked, and you can get a few samples before you buy. Watch out for their tastings attended by the winemakers themselves: these are really fun.
0.75 bar
Just a few years ago, Letná did not have a single good wine bar. Now it has several. One of the newest additions is the 0.75 bar, a beautiful bar right on the Dukelských hrdinů street. The cons are the beautiful interior and a great selection of wines wth a focus on the low-intervention variety - natural wines form more than one half of all the wines on the shelves. Good stuff.
Násoska a ochmelka
The third wine bar opening within the space of a few blocks, Násoska a ochmelka, in addition to arguably the best name for a bar, offers a tiny space and a big personality of the owner/sommelier. The focus is on small nagtural wine producers, the funkier the bettter.
LETNA BEER GARDEN
You know the spring has arrived when the Letná beer garden gets full for the first time with people craving some sunshine, a nice walk through the park, and a cold beer. Offering some of the best views of the the Old Town, the beer garden is a popular meeting spot among both locals who sit cheerfully at the communal tables. The beer is your standard Gambrinus in a plastic cup but hey, nobody comes here to discuss hops and fermentation, okay?
Where to shop in Letná?
Heřmaňák market
There are several farmers’ markets on a Saturday in Prague, but the Heřmaňák, located on Řezáčovo námšstí square, must be our favorite. It is pretty small and thus avoids the clutter of some other crowded markets in town: there’s just one of each - one fruit and veg stand, one egg stand, one flower stand, one coffee stand and so on. But the selection of vendors is great, and given the size, this feels the most neighborly. We love it.
Nila
Opened literally a few weeks ago in the place of a former Copy General store, Nila is bringing a touch of their signature class with an eye on sustainability to Letná. As with the other locations in Karlín and VInohrady, the shop is generous with space, beautifully decorated and full of things we need to own. Great stuff.
Galerie Zari
A small gallery in the Hermanova street that shows and - more importantly - sells some fantastic and unique jewelry designs by young and independent jewelry designers from the Czech Republic and some neighboring countries. Be careful: a visit to Galerie Zari may cost you dearly. It’s easy to fall in love here.
Tablo
Some of the coolest porcelain designs right now can be found in the showroom of Tablo, formerly known as de-sign.cz. The association of young porcelain designers have a showroom in the Havanska street, and it’s definitely worth a visit if you are in the market for a cool homeware souvenir.
Zorya
This tip is accessible by appointment only, but oh boy, is it so worth it! Zdenek Vacek and Daniel Posta, the two young designers behind the Zorya brand, create some of the most original and beautiful pieces of jewelry on the Czech designer jewelry market, and are staples of any design competition or event here in Prague. Their studio and showroom in the Jana Zajice street is a must if you are in the market for some unique jewelry.
Helena Darbujanova
Among the cool and hip stores around Veverkova street, the boudoir of Helena Darbujanova seems like from a different time and space: feminine and tender, the designs of the furniture and accessories refer to a time long past where people had time to appreciate better things. Sure, you may not buy the sofa to take back home, but one of the smaller pieces could be just the right thing.
Page Five
If you’re like us, you like a souvenir that packs well, does not cost much and brings nice memories back. And a designer book fits all these categories. Page Five is a showroom of a small local publisher, basically a couple, that sells books it has produced itself, as well as other beautifully crafted, modern books, magazines and posters. And their dog is one of the nicest in town and likes to pose for pictures.
Garage / Sneaker Barber
Czech Republic is a true global superpower when it comes to vinyl records and turntables, and the Garage store right opposite Page Five sells both - either used or new vinyls, and older hi-fi turntables refurbished by the owner, a DJ by night, himself. And what better companion to a great beat than a pair of spanking new sneakers? You have to tap your foot to the beat, don’t you? Who knows? Sneaker Barber may be just the place where you'll find the pair of limited edition sneakers you were looking for so hard.
Koncept story
If you’re in for “the find” of your trip, the Koncept Story shop might be just that. Opened as a showroom of ten very young and promising Czech designers, the shop sells items that are beautiful and functional and vary from anything between illustration, home accessories, fashion design, designer jewelry, or really cool eyewear. A must if you’re in the area and looking for
Lab 24
Finding cool, hip menswear in Prague can be a chore. Lab 24 showroom tries to change that, bringing a few cool brands of men’s clothing and accessories to the Letná district. Notables include the Alexmonhart backpacks that have been gaining lots of traction recently, Kaibosh eyewear or HyperGrand watches.
Jakoby
Kristina Javurkova’s fashion pieces maybe simple at first sight but behind them is a simple, elegant sophistication and more than meets the eye. Just touch them: soft, organic cotton, wool, silk or linen. The clothing defies any current trends and - according to the designer - gender divides. See for yourself.
Kdo to kdy slysel
None of the fashion pieces in Letná’s showroom have scratched that fashion itch you had? Then it’s time to create your own, preferably with the cloth and fabrics sold in this tiny little shop in the Veverkova street. From Japanese to European organic fabrics, you’re sure to find the pattern and feel you’ll fall in love with in Kdo to kdy slysel.
Basecamp
You know a place is going to be special when their firs Foursquare review says “The hash I bought there was not that great.” But Basecamp sells LOTS of beers (nearly 300 we think) from both Czech Republic and abroad. The owner probably lives in the shop, and the regulars… well, they look a lot like the dictionary definition of alcoholics. So we’d stop there on the way to the Stromovka or Letná parks just to get some beers for that picnic you’ve prepared.
Hairkat
And how about a souvenir that will last just for a few weeks? Why not a haircut from Prague? Hairkat is a tiny hair salon with a big attitude. Katerina Kalábová, the owner and hairdresser, is a quite famous figure on the Prague streets and her cuts are fun, just as the owner. (She is the only person to have ever cut our son' JJ’s hair. ‘Nuff said.)
U krále zeleznic
The time has stopped in this general hardware shop some 30 years ago: while modern DIY shops serve everything sterile and prepackaged: here everything - including the shop assistant - is still well lubricated and covered in grease, which truly permeates the dusty air. No touching, no self-service: this is still strictly over-the-counter shopping, just like the grandpa liked it. Little screws are sold in small paper bags and the bills are written with pencils on little scraps of paper.
