Vršovice may not be at the top of everyone’s Prague to do list, but Vršovice doesn’t mind. This Prague neighbourhood, nestled safely behind the grab-all-the-attention Vinohrady, is a hidden gem that feels a bit sleepy / more neighbourly than most of Prague’s residential districts. Full of parks, easy slopes and great views, Vršovice is perfect for half-a-day stroll far away from the madding crowds of the historical centre, and a glimpse at what real life in Prague outside of the historical centre may look like.
First mentioned in 1088 and becoming a part of Prague in 1922, Vršovice lies just south of Vinohrady, on a south-facing slope and at the bottom of that slope. It may not have the grandeur of the Belle Epoque Vinohrady district, but we actually love the small-town feel of the district and its unpretentious nature.
Now, we take a more liberal approach to defining Vršovice - to us, that includes the Grébovka vineyard and the Grotto (albeit these may still be formal parts of Vinohrady) and anything south of Ruská street, all the way down to the to the Eden stadium and the Nádraží Vršovice train station.
What to do in Vršovice.
We tend to think of Vršovice as a place for leisure: the Havlíčkovy sady park with the famous grotto and the even more famous Grébovka vineyard (yes, there’s proper vineyards in Prague) are very common destinations for Prague families and childless friends alike. The nearby Heroldovy sady and Bezručovy sady (the latter a part of Vinohrady but hey, it’s just a minute away) are other parks within walking distance of each other. Getting coffee and a treat (or a craft beer at the likes of Bad Flash Bar) and have it in a nearby park is what we like to do in Vršovice.
Need another reason to go to Vršovice? How about football? The neighbourhood boasts not one, but two first league clubs. Bohemians is the more atmospheric club with incredibly loyal followers. You know how every league had one team that is different, a band of misfits? That’s Bohemians for you - the small stadium is arguably the closest to a regional league game you can get, and watching a game with the neighbourhood patriots can be a memorable - and very Vršovice - experience. Slavia, on the other hand, is a big, modern stadium of a huge club with a big following, so come here for a more standard game with more up-to-date amenities.
How about architecture? There’s a few interesting things. You want to start with St Wenceslas Church, a striking constructivist building finished in 1930 and designed by Mr Gočár, a local architectural giant. Just a few blocks away, you’ll find Hus’ House from the same year, with a Hussite church and a tower designed by Mr Jandák, a cubist legend. To finish off sacral buildings in Vršovice, the St Nicholas Church is a surprisingly sombre Baroque building from 1704. Just across the street, you’ll find the Rangherka, an old silk manufacturing facility, and Heroldovy sady, the former mulberry orchard turned into a park.
Many people find themselves visiting Vršovice solely to visit Krymská street, named one of NYT’s favourite European streets in 2015. Although the sloped Krymská may span just three blocks, the street and its nearest vicinity offer loads of fun restaurants, cafés, shops and venues below the radar. Krymska’s street party has become a magnet for many during the Experience the City Differently events, and for good reason. If you visit Vršovice, this is a good place to start: just don’t expect beauty - expect a specific vibe.
Here’s where you eat and drink in Vršovice.
If you are fan of coffee, Vršovice has loads to offer. We’re starting with Coffee Source Francouzská that offers coffee from roasts by the eponymous roaster, one of the first on the Czech market. In addition to sweets, CSF also sells breads and buns by Kro Bakery of the Kro group. Add the minimalist and slightly floral design, and you’ve got a winner. Talking about floral, Botanica Coffee Truck must be one of the most instagrammed coffee shops in the city, and for good reason: the backyard of a popular flower shop, and the old-times truck in it from the people behind Mazelab Coffee, Cafe Fin or Format Coffee is a visually stunning maze of flowers, lightbulbs and various decorations. Great stuff. For coffee & tea with an Asian/Japanese touch and vegan fate, visit SĪTÚ Coffee & Tea.
Moving on to cafés / bistros: If there’s a Vršovice icon, it must be Café Jen, coming to the neighbourhood before anybody else did. Great coffee and breakfasts all days are the name of the game, along with nice baking. The Flat Café may be a London-inspired newcomer, but their coffee game is solid and their breakfast are actually rather good. This is one of the nicer, atmospheric cafés with more seating capacity than most. Tvoje máma really focuses on baking and specialty coffee - their poppy seed filling is a standout and one of the best in town. And Café Šlágr is a café/pastry shop with a nice, retro feel and humongous pastries.
Need to eat? Mistro bistro is a local favorite with a menu that leans towards Italy with pasta, salads but also seafood and a few hearty options. Jam & Co is a trendy Asian fusion restaurant in one of the coolest parts of Vršovice, the infamous Krymská street, a few years back dubbed the hipster central of the city, while Stavros Grill serves take out Greek food. Right next door is Ansámbl, a very new Czech neo bistro and a collaboration of the local craft beer experts of Bad Flash Bar and a former chef of Michelin-starred La Degustation. For fine dining, you must make a reservation at Benjamin 14, with just a few tables around a bard for a more experience-based dining, but Falafelova Bistro around the corner will satisfy with quick Middle-Eastern fare, and Osteria Da Clara is a Vršovice staple for Italian cuisine.
For a quick bite, try La Focacceria that serves - you guessed it - focaccias and breads along with other Italian treats. Within sights you also have the Lya Beer Café for coffee and beer to go, and Ráno kávu, večer víno for… as the Czech name promises - coffee in the morning and wine in the evening. Krymská street, mentioned above, boasts many other great places, like Le Caveau bakery, Satsang with a vegetarian menu, or the iconic Café v lese that serves anything from coffee to cocktails or small-scale, intimate concerts and performances by some of the most interesting characters of the local scene. Café Sladkovský just a street away serves lunch specials and bar foods nearly all day, and Café Bar Pilotů is a surprisingly capable cocktail bar that will satisfy the cinema goers in the independent Kino Pilotů movie theatre next door, or anyone else, for that matter.
Other places of interest? Valhalla Beer Club and Bohemian Boards and Beers will satisfy beer lovers… and the latter also board game aficionados. Xao bookstore at the bottom of the street sells beautiful books and prints - fancy a souvenir, anyone? Vzlet is a local cultural centre with a coffee shop and art installations, and Moravské koláčky Doležal will fix you with proper Moravian kolache. Puro Gelato satisfies all Havlíčkovy sady goers with ice-cream. Koncept 0 is zero-waste bistro. And if you walk all the way down, Waldeska will reward you with proper Czech pub fare. Finally, Ankali is the best EDM/techno club for adults in town.