Our Christmas Meal at Aureole

Don’t get us wrong. We love Christmas. But organizing Christmas Eve dinner (the main event of the holidays here in the Czech Republic) for the family? A nightmare. Finding all the ingredients (while still doing last-minute shopping because the presents for you that you’ve just found out about are way cooler than yours), stressing about the family members arrival times and seating orders, cooking the meals while constantly cleaning the mess because we’re running out of time and omg they’re here already?! No, not again. Thank you very much.

That’s why we actually decided to make a change this year and go out for a nice, relaxed Christmas Eve meal. Having met with the parents a few days later (they spent Christmas outside of Prague), we just planned two things for December 24: a visit to Zuzi’s sister and her boyfriend, and a Christmas Eve dinner at Aureole. 

We kinda like Aureole. Although seated in a building Zuzi lovingly likes to call “The House of Evil” (she used to work there), Aureole is our secret tip for a “restaurant with a view”, a very popular category here in Prague that still deserves a proper representation in the centre. In the centre Aureole is not, but boy - you do get a view. Coincidentally, it also served what we thought was the best Christmas menu of all the restaurants we contacted before the holidays to compile our piece about dining in Prague over the holidays, so we decided to go.

The place was completely empty at 5pm, the time of our reservation. Another couple arrived shortly after us, and the restaurant was half full by the time we were leaving past 7pm. The staff indicated that they were booked out later that night. We were surprised to see mostly local families dining there. Still, the decor is quite striking at night, and the view is great. 

Zuzi’s grandma would faint if she had learnt that Zuzi ate meat on Christmas Eve (that’s a big no no in her family) so she opted out of the meaty amuse bouche, roast dear with cranberry and apple jellies and gingerbread reduction. Instead, the kitchen prepared a pair of veggie California makis. One word about bread. We have to say it out loud: the bread served in Czech restaurants is seldom little more than the pre-baked stuff you can buy at any supermarket. Aureole is no exception to the rule. We hope things will change soon for the better.  

The first course was the fillet of South Bohemian trout smoked in beech with horse radish mousse and lemon jelly. We liked the flavors but the trout was quite dry inside. We had a very similar entree recently at Mlynec, a restaurant we wanted to try after it reopened after the summer floods, and Aureole’s version was slightly better. The flavors were there and the horseradish blended nicely with the lemon jelly and the smokiness of the trout, but the texture of the fish was simply dry. 

We followed with the fish creamy soup and butter croutons. Nice presentation, as always at Aureole, and the flavors were right. Again, nice smokey flavors from the salmon and the roe added a nice textural touch. We both liked the soup. The next course was the mushroom “Kuba” (basically a barley risotto with pork fat with grouts and mushrooms) served with roasted “wine sausage”. Zuzi did not have the sausage, of course, but we both liked the dish. The sausage was very mild and ground almost to mousse texture inside. The “kuba” had a strong mushroomy flavor and a great texture.

Finally, the main was a Czech Christmas classic: fried carp with potato salad, this time breaded in Panko breadcrumbs and served with fried zander in wine batter and with fried roe. Out of the meats, we would have assumed that carp would be our least favorite but we were wrong: we absolutely loved the carp. It was cooked perfectly and packed tons of flavors (the good ones). The potato salad was good but hey - it was not grandma's.

We loved the trio of desserts, too: a tartlet with forest fruits, an apple baked in puff pastry and gingerbread-strawberry sorbet, finished with warm (milk) chocolate. We liked the baked apple the best. Jan had coffee. Aureole serves Nespresso coffee. Obviously, coffee is not a priority over at Aureole but let's be honest: fine-dining restaurants generally tend not to focus on coffee. La Degustation clearly took a bold step when it started serving drip coffee over espresso but it's an exception.

All in all, we really liked our Christmas Eve dinner at Aureole. The price for the set menu was CZK 890 (about EUR 33) each. With wines (incl. the lovely New Zealand Marlborough Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc), we paid about CZK 2,500, which we think was fair.

As an added bonus, we received carp scales (pictured), which bring good luck and prosperity according to a Czech custom. Nice touch.

Breakfast in Prague

(Please note that this is an older post on breakfast in Prague. Click here for the most up-to-date post on the best breakfast in Prague.) 

For some, it is a waste of time, and a croissant and coffee or a bit of yoghurt will do. For others, breakfast is a vital start that sets the tone for the rest of the day. We must admit we belong to the second category. For us, a late breakfast is definitely one of our favorite pastimes. There's nothing better than getting out of the bed with the promise of some scrambled eggs with bacon, fluffy pancakes, delicious coffee - okay, now we're salivating. What makes a breakfast so great is you can stop for a moment, think about all the things you did yesterday, and plan the day ahead of you. All this thinking deserves a nice meal. Whether you prefer savory or sweet, we give you a list of our favorite breakfast spots in Prague:

Café Savoy

This is one of our favorite places for breakfast. The art deco interior is nice but not overwhelming. The high ceilings are airy and there's lots of light inside, which is something we like. This is a great place for people watching: the crowd is a mix of elegantly dressed locals and visitors from abroad. When you walk downstairs to the bathrooms, you’ll pass the wine cellar and if you go further, you can have a look at the bakery where they prepare their delicious pastries. Book a table in advance (especially for weekend mornings) and have the French toast, one of the best croissants in the city with wonderful apricot marmalade, baked brioche bread with ham and Gruyere cheese and a poached egg, or scrambled eggs - all delicious! Their sausages are also nice. They also have a nice but pricey selection of teas, but we are not huge fans of their coffee, despite them having beans from local roasters - so we hope they improve on their coffee-brewing skills.

Café Lounge

If coffee is an important part of your breakfast, then Café Lounge, just a few steps off Café Savoy, might hit your fancy. As for breakfast, you can choose from several items that include sausages, scrambled eggs, ham-and-eggs, Bircher muesli, or you can build your own “Hunger Wall” (which actually runs through the patio of the café), i.e. you can choose create your own breakfast set. We also like their sandwiches, especially the chicken-and-egg sandwich sandwich, or their focaccia with grilled vegetables and goat cheese or chorizo. If you prefer a sweet breakfast, we recommend you opt for the Czech sweets - sweet buns or kolachees. Definitely avoid the pastries in the cooler - they may look nice but they fall behind in terms of taste. Fresh juices and a wide selection of tees are also available for the non-coffee drinkers. When the weather permits, definitely choose a table in their lovely garden.

Home Kitchen

This small and intimate place really feels like home: you sit at two communal tables, and the staff is friendly and helpful. The selection for breakfast is small but tasty and of high quality. Apart from eggs, you can also get pancakes and good bread with several toppings, or choose from a daily selection of three soups served with bread and flavored olive oil. Home Kitchen is great for really early breakfasts, opening as early as 7:30. However, they are closed on Sundays. The only downside is that they don't serve tap water, but we still like it a lot.

Můj šálek kávy

Another of our favorites in Prague, Muj salek kavy is a lovely and a very popular place located in the Karlín district, which has witnessed dramatic renewal since the 2002 floods, and is almost always packed. We both have favorites on their breakfast menu: while Zuzi likes their home-made muesli with Greek yoghurt and fruits, Jan always orders their omelette with ham, cheese, mushrooms and tomatoes. Their coffee is delicious, and their beans, roasted in house by the owner of the cafe, the Doubleshot roasters, are served both in espresso-based drinks and in drips. You can even order a tasting set of three different drip coffees. We love their home-made lemonades, and we never leave without tasting one of their delicious cakes. Oh, and the pistachio ice-cream is finger-licking-good.

Pasta Caffé

Although the crowds - an eclectic mix of shady Czech businessmen and B-list celebrities - may not be to our taste at times, their breakfast sets are a terrific value and consist of  good-quality components. We love the boiled eggs with Parmeggiano cheese or fried eggs with spinach and onions, for instance. Later in the day, they focus on lighter, pasta-based dishes and salads. They also offer a nice selection of Czech and Italian pastries if you cannot imagine your breakfast without a sweet ending. They have another branch in the Vodickova street near the Wenceslas Square with a virtually identical menu.

Café Imperial

Being a hotel restaurant, Café Imperial offers a breakfast buffet and breakfast sets in addition to the a la carte choices. Their staff is very polite and professional, at times to the point of being a little bit stuffy. Their menu is very extensive and you will find it hard to find something missing. We liked our breakfasts (poached eggs and the English breakfast set) the last time we visited, although we must admit we would skip the croissant and jam the next time. The interior, with its high ceilings and the walls covered in tiles, is striking, but may make the impression that you are eating in a spa. :-)

Monolok

This nice café off the beaten path is located in the Vinohrady district, and its location is excellent if you want to explore the area further (which is something that we definitely recommend). They serve delicious coffee and offer a small selection of breakfast dishes: nice sausages, egg-based dishes, muesli, pancakes, fruits, and a few breakfast sets. If the weather is nice, definitely get a table in their lovely patio in the courtyard. Their baristas are really good and the staff is very friendly in general. The only problem we have with this place is, ironically, the owners - they don't seem to be interested in how their guests are doing or if they feel welcome, and just boss their employees around in front of the guests.

La Bottega di Finestra

This shop/bistro near the Charles Bridge is a bit upscale, just like the sister restaurant next door, but their eggs Benedict are worth a visit alone. The few breakfast dishes they serve are all of very good quality, and they make full use of their own in-house bakery. The shop/bistro combo plays very well to the customer's advantage: all the ingredients are fresh and tasty.

EMA Espresso Bar

OK, this is not a place for "proper breakfast" with eggs and bacon, but if you want great coffee in a relaxed and nice atmosphere, and you'll do just fine with a small sandwich or croissant, we cannot recommend EMA enough. As an added bonus, you can meet us there - we are there so often we are thinking about having our mail forwarded there ;-) No, really, the baristas are excellent, and the coffee usually fantastic. In addition to their more regular coffees, they always offer something special as their "coffee of the week", so you'll never get bored. In terms of food, they offer fresh sandwiches, one or two salads, and something sweet. They also serve fresh juices and home-made lemonades.

Where can you have a salad in Prague?

The heat is presently boiling Prague and its people, making a stay outside very exhausting. And if we trust the weather forecast, we’ll still have to suffer through the heat wave the next week (well, the temperatures should drop with thunder storms on Tuesday). With temperatures this high, it can be difficult to imagine yourself doing anything outside, let alone eating.

The only thing we crave during these days is watermelon and salads. Unfortunately, for many restaurants in Prague salads are still sort of an afterthought. In too many places you can still find the following only: chopped iceberg lettuce, a tomato cut in six wedges, some cubes of cucumber, add a bit of salty cheese and four green olives and voila - you have a Greek salad! Luckily for you, we have some tips because a good salad is hard to find.

Imperial – The Imperial Café offers a great selection of salads. This is the place if you love your food in a Belle Epoque interior. Although essentially a hotel restaurant, Imperial has a great reputation among the locals, and their menu includes classics like the Caesar salad but done right: not with iceberg but romaine lettuce. Other salads include goat cheese salad or the endive and orange fillets salad.

La Bottega di Finestra– The sister restaurant of the next-door La Finestra di Cucina restaurant, La Bottega di Finestra, the more casual bistro, offers a nice selection of salads. You can mix whatever you like on a plate, order some bread baked in house, have their cucumber lemonade, and eat it there or have it wrapped to go.

PastaCaffe – This is a great option when you crave something simple and decent. The salad with Gorgonzola and avocado has a nice orange dressing, but we usually go for a salad with tuna, which, although canned, is of good quality. Go to the Vodickova branch or watch the Czech nouveau riche in the branch near the Old Town Square.

Muj šalek kavy– A very popular café, Muj salek kavy offers smaller meals and at least two salads in their menu. Complex, fine dining dishes? No. Quick, tasty meals? Yes. Don’t forget to have one of their ice-creams made by 2AD in Tuchlovice, a small village about 15 miles off Prague, or combine it with their delicious coffee in a cup of Affogato.

Café Lounge– Another one of our favorite cafes, this time on the Castle side of the river. In addition to great coffee, they prepare full meals for lunches and dinners. However, we return there for their grilled vegetables and goat cheese combo. Two additional perks: tap water is served without any obstructions, and their lovely garden in the courtyard offers a shady, cool environment, and an intimate contact with the medieval Hunger Wall that runs through it.

Café Savoy – Just two minutes by walk from Café Lounge, Café Savoy is slightly upscale, and we usually recommend it for a rich, plentiful breakfast. Perhaps not the lightest of meals in these hot days, but their French toast is to die for. That said, they also have a small selection of nice salads, some adding cheeses or meat to the mix.

Home kitchen – One of the most popular bistros in the centre, Home Kitchen changes their offer daily. Their daily specials usually include a salad and they are open to adjust it to the client’s tastes. In addition, their summer soup menu includes a cold soup daily. We also love their breads with different toppings.

Cestr – We can hear you say it: “Salad in a steak house? Are you crazy?” No, according to our doctors, we’re not. Čestr makes salads using locally sourced products from local farmers. In addition, they really know how to season even a plain salad: we get great responses from our guests about the simple garden salad, too. We recommend the salad with the cheese from the Krasolesi farm, or the sheep cheese salad with oregano, or the roast beef salad (obviously). And don’t forget to have a scoop of their delicious beer ice-cream.

Dish fine burger bistro – Just like in Cestr, Dish’s forte is in meat, namely burgers. However, this should not deter you if you crave a salad. They offer two salads as we write this: one with watermelon, tomatoes and feta, and another one with marinated fennel, citruses and mint. Their older salad, arugula with caramelized garlic and ricotta cheese, remains Zuzi’s favorite to this day – quite logical, given that she was born in a village known as the “garlic capital of the Czech Republic”.

Pizza Nuova– Are you really hungry and crave something more substantial? Than we recommend Pizza Nuova’s all-you-can-eat salad and tapas bar, which offers good value for decent food, ranging from salads, smoked fish, cold cuts, olives and so on to cheeses and other Italian products.

Pho Vietnam – If Asian flavors is what you are looking for, head over to the Vinohrady district for a plate of Bún bò Nam Bộ, Vietnamese beef noodle salad. Head over to the branch at Anglicka street, which offers seating.

No matter of what eatery you visit, remember the three Hs of summer: hydrate, hydrate, hydrate! Enjoy the sun... and the salad!

Picnic in Prague

Our lovely guests joining our todays' tour, Eleanor and Max, have expressed a wish to have a picnic in Prague. What a great idea! To be honest, having a picnic in one of Prague's plentiful parks is one of our favorite things to do in Prague when the heatwave hits. "Why?" We hear you ask. We'll tell you why!

First of all, having a picnic in a park among locals is a great way to relax after you've had enough of the crowds occupying the main sights in Prague. Second, Prague is a hilly town so many parks offer splendid views of different parts of the town. Many of our guests ask where they can get a romantic meal with a view, and for some, a picnic may be the answer and the memorable experience you will be bringing home with you. Third, it is perfectly legal to have a drink or two in public places; therefore, nothing stops you from enjoying a nice bottle of Bohemian or Moravian wine with the picnic, or enjoy a chilled lager or ale from a beer specialty shop. Finally, some really nice food can be had in the shops surrounding some of our favorite spots for picnic, so you won't be hauling heavy loads across the city. The only slight niggle you may have about the whole experience is the fact that you may, at times, be eating your food about two feet from a hungry labrador staring at you with those hungry, sad eyes. But they never stay for long, trust us!

And because we want our guests, including Eleanor and Max, and you to make the best out of your stay in Prague, we have put together a small map of our favorite places for a nice, calm and tasty summer picnic. The map does not stop at the recommended spots for picnics but goes beyond that: it shows the suggested shops where you can find some delicious food to bring with you.

Kampa park

Ah, the Kampa park… Jan used to spend all his high school days over there, hanging out with his friends… usually not studying. The Kampa is a very hip, local park in the centre. Just a few meters off the Charles Bridge, one of the most crowded sights in Prague, it has still retained its local character. You will find everything there: dogs running around, people throwing frisbees, practicing tai-chi, playing the drums etc.

Petřín hill

The ultimate picnic with a view. We have been recommending this place for a picnic for over a year now, and it still is hard to beat when it comes to the view. After you're finished eating, you can follow on to the Strahov monastery and the Prague Castle. And if that hill seems intimidating or you're not feel like climbing steep hills in hot weather, there's a solution: simply buy a ticket for the funicular car and get off at the middle station. Easy!

Letná park

The Letná park is a place where people in Prague love to go for jogging, roller-blade skating, riding bikes or simply having a cup of beer in the local beer garden. The whole park becomes alive with the first spring days, and stays that way until the fall. The park is a place that makes you realize there's more life in Prague than just the centre, and may invite you to explore some other districts, including the Letná itself.

Stromovka

If you want to have a picnic like a local, you must visit the Stromovka, the biggest park near the centre of the town. The Stromovka actually includes designated picnic areas where grilling is allowed, including benches and tables. Nothing will disturb you there, save for the occasional train running through the park. If you'll see horses, don't panic: there's is an equestrian centre near the park. Follow the horses and then follow on to the Prague ZOO and the Troja chateau.

Riegrovy sady

A very popular park that is the perfect place for a late picnic: the park offers a great view of the Prague Castle and the Old Town in the sunset. You don't have to bring beers along, with a wildly popular beer garden just a few steps away. The park also doubles as the gateway to the Vinohrady district, which offers lots of great food and architecture.

Vítkov hill

The Vitkov hill may not be on the first pages of your guide book but we think it is an absolutely awesome place for several reasons. First of all, you'll find solitude there, if you want it: the slope offers many hidden parts and small areas that offer at least some privacy. Second, you will see Prague from a different perspective - either the centre over a huge railroad track coming out of a tunnel underneath the hill, or the Zizkov district from one of the designated picnic areas along the old-railway-now-turned-into-a-cycling route. Third, you can visit the awesome National Memorial at the top of the hill, and enjoy one of the most stunning views of anything you've ever seen.

Show Picnic spots & where to shop on a larger map

A Food with a View

Our guests often include couples who want to share a romantic meal together, so we are always asked about Prague restaurants with a great view. Our response is always the same: you pay a premium for a scenic view, and, as a rule of thumb, you can get better value elsewhere. Still, we do understand why people love them: Prague is a beautiful, romantic place with hills, so you want to take advantage of the scenic views.

Yesterday, we tasted the lunch menu at a restaurant with a view, too. But a different view. Located on the top floor of a high rise building, lovingly called the "House of Evil" by Zuzi (she used to work there before we started Taste of Prague), Aureole presents itself as a high-end Asian fusion, which for us would mean it is a direct competitor to SaSaZu, another great outfit in Prague. Both Aureole and SaSaZu have received the Bib Gourmand award from Michelin, which means great value for money. But let's not fool ourselves: it is an upscale restaurant.

We tried the lunch menu, which comes at CZK 390 for a three course-menu, or CZK 590 for a five-course menu. Reserving a table was rather odd: when we called the day before for a 2pm slot, we were told the restaurant was fully booked. However, when we called at 1pm, we were informed we could come at about 2:15pm, and when we did, the restaurant was virtually empty (there was, truth be told, a rather large graduation party going on in the restaurant). Anyway, we recommend reserving the tables soon, and for a later lunch.

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Let's clear one thing out upfront: the view is phenomenal, especially on a beautiful day. You see everything, including - a nice bonus - the traffic situation around the entire city. This is Prague how we like it: not just the picturesque old parts of the town, but Prague as a modern, present city. The restaurant offers indoors tables and terrace tables under large shades. The terrace seating is the only smoking area of the restaurant. The music is a nice mix of unobtrusive-electro-meets-Asian-wellness-spa kind of tracks.

The starters: cream of asparagus with poached egg and whole grain croutons, and yellow fin tuna tartar, mango chutney, green leaves salad and Ponzu sauce. While the tuna tartar was nice, offering a nice combination of flavors (especially the sorrel leaves adding nice acidity), the cream of asparagus was the star. We agreed that sometimes it is hard to remember a particular dish even from a very expensive, Michelin star restaurant. We will definitely remember the cream of asparagus: it was light, delicate and tasted like asparagus (unlike many other asparagus soups we have tasted this year).

The mains: Salmon filled and grilled cuttlefish, parsley tagliatelle with spinach leaves and baby Pak Choi, lime skim and prawns chili reduction (which was sold at a CZK 195 surcharge), and pork leg stewed with greed curry, vegetables and baby Pak Choi, jasmine rice. The salmon dish was the winner if we compared the mains. The curry was nice but had no kick whatsoever (and we mean absolutely no kick, even by Czech standards), and we both agreed that the curry dishes at SaSaZu usually add another layer of flavor. While this curry was nice, we did not find it special. The salmon was fresh, had a great taste (just as the calamari and squid) and the tagliatelle were perfectly cooked and had a nice taste.

The dessert (white Paris whipped cream with fresh strawberries and strawberry sorbet) was disappointing: while the cream looked fluffy and light, in reality it was heavy and dense. It was more white chocolate than whipped cream. The strawberry sorbet was delicious, though. Zuzi left the cream barely touched on the plate, and the waitress took it away without asking if everything was ok - that's a big no no, in our eyes. We also had a glass of wine and a Crodino, which were, well, not cheap.

Now, the reservations we may have had are really just niggles: all in all, we liked the lunch, and for CZK 390 (or EUR 15), we definitely recommend it: you get some really good food, which is really nicely presented, a wonderful view, and more. Based on the short impression we got during our lunch, we would stick to the more European style of cooking, and visit SaSaZu for Asian fusion cuisine. The wine is on the expensive side (which is not surprising for a fine dining restaurant) but - lo and behold - you get tap water for free, which is almost a miracle for a place with a view in Prague.

The Aureole restaurant is located near the Pankrac subway stop (the red "C" line), four stops (less than 10 minutes) from the Muzeum stop (i.e. top of the Wenceslas Square).

Lost in Translation: Czech Dishes Explained

Ordering food in a foreign country can be tricky, to say the least. Nowhere was this clearer than when we visited the Basque Country two years ago: dish after dish, every meal was a surprise - we were thinking we knew what we were ordering until the meal actually arrived. Thought we were ordering beef? Nope, it was fish. Fancy chicken? No, you'll be having duck. And although we think the level of English in Prague generally ranges from ok to high, sometimes the actual dish may surprise you, too. This post will try to clear some of the mystifying items in Czech menus.

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Lesson 1: When cheese is not cheese.

Our guests have often commented on two items that caused some confusion: pickled cheese and head cheese. Pickled cheese ("nakladany hermelin") does not sound really appetizing but in reality it's quite delicious and all our guests who had the opportunity to taste it really liked it, we think. It's basically Czech Camembert-style cheese cut in half, stuffed with spices and herbs and marinated in oil. It's a good way adding some additional flavors to the cheese. The cheese thus marinated is more flavorful and gets a very soft, almost gooey texture. Why "pickled cheese", then? Easy: the Czech language uses the same word for pickling and marinating, and the pickling is the first equivalent you find in a dictionary. Therefore, "pickled cheese" is a lazy translation, or mistranslation, of what should be "marinated cheese". In any way, there is no vinegar involved.

Head cheese is quite different, though, and an item that causes serious confusion. Head cheese is not cheese at all: it's a meat product, sometimes called, in a joke, the "Czech carpaccio". Basically, you boil a pig's head, which creates a stock in a gel structure. You add meat and, according to some recipes, other ingredients (like root vegetables), and you let it cool in a form or a thick salami tube. When cooled, you cut the resulting "salami" in thicker slices and serve them with vinegar and raw onion (hence the carpaccio reference), and it sourdough bread with it. Now, Zuzi and I agree to disagree on that one: while I absolutely love it, Zuzi is not a fan.

Lesson 2: A metaphor goes a long way

Another problem faced by many foodies in the Czech Republic is the fact that the Czechs have sometimes preferred metaphorical over descriptive names of their dishes. The result? Dishes names like "Spanish birdie", "Moravian sparrow" etc. Don't worry - no birds were harmed in the making of these dishes. "Spanish birdie" is basically a stewed beef roll filled with bacon, a pickle, sausage and hard-boiled egg, usually served with bread-roll dumplings or with rice. The name of the dish was coined by Mr Rettigova, the author or probably the most famous Czech cookbook ever written (which dates back to 1826). "Moravian sparrow" are roasted pieces of pork belly or shoulder marinated in garlic and caraway seeds and then served with dumplings and sauerkraut. Again, something that the name would not imply. The metaphoric approach to naming Czech dishes finds its peak with the "drowned man", which means nothing more than pickled sausages (this time they are really pickled), served with pickles and bread and served with beer.

Another classic example is the "Basta", which is basically an assortment of meats served with various kinds of dumplings and usually sauerkraut and red cabbage. This dish is quite heavy but great if you want to taste a bit of everything in the Holy Trinity of Czech cuisine: pork - dumplings - sauerkraut. Czech classic dishes with slightly confusing names also include "svickova": beef with root vegetable and cream sauce served with a slice of lemon, cranberry compote and dumplings. Here the confusion is subtle: "svickova" means "tenderloin" although in reality cheaper cuts are mostly used. The same goes for pastries: virtually none of them have a descriptive name. Some of the most famous are included in the glossary below

Lesson 3: A brief glossary of term

Because Taste of Prague is primarily an educational project (ok, not really, but we'll go ahead with this argument when we apply for EU funding sometime in the future), we provide below a brief summary of very brief classic dishes and their explanations:

Czech termLiteral English translationDescription

Nakládaný hermelínPickled cheeseCzech Camembert-style cheese marinated in oil and stuffed with herbs and spices

TlačenkaHeadcheeseSlices of meat and collagenised stock served with bread, vinegar and raw onion

Španělský ptáčekSpanish birdieStewed beef roll filled with bacon, a pickle, sausage and hard-boiled egg

Moravský vrabecMoravian sparrowRoasted pieces of pork belly or shoulder marinated in garlic and caraway seeds

SvíčkováTenderloinBeef with root vegetable and cream sauce

BaštaDelightAssortment of meats with an assortment of dumplings with sauerkraut and red cabbage

VěnečekLaurel wreathChoux pastry filled with vanilla cream and covered in sugar glaze (sometimes with lemon)

VětrníkWindmillChoux pastry filled with caramel and vanilla cream with caramel glaze

RakvičkaLittle coffinSweet oblong and hollow biscuit, usually served with whipped cream

This list is far from exhaustive, of course. There are many, many other dishes with names that may confuse you. And this is where we turn to you: have you ever had a surprising experience when you ordered Czech dishes? Have you ever seen a puzzling name of a Czech dish? Let us know in the comments!

Vegetarian restaurants in Prague

Being a vegetarian in the Czech Republic used to be tough. Some ten years ago, restaurants would have only two "vegetarian" options on the menu: fried cheese, and fried cheese... with ham (really). While things have gotten better recently and vegetarians do have many options to choose from (at least in Prague), for many restaurants that also cook meat, vegetarian dishes remain a mere afterthought, while their focus is clearly elsewhere. You may notice we tend to be quite critical of the local vegetarian scene. Don't get us wrong: we love vegetarian cooking (even Jan) for the variety and richness of flavors. However, some of the older Czech vegetarian dishes are stuck on the practice of basically cooking meaty dishes with meat substitutes. In our eyes, this makes no sense. Goulash with tofu, anyone? Soy "a la beef steak"? Why does Czech vegetarian cooking of the yesteryear try so hard to mimic meat? We don't know. That is why we still tend to think that while some of the choices in Prague are good, they will have a hard time matching some of their counterparts abroad (establishments like Ottolenghi in London, or De Kas in Amsterdam).

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If you are a vegetarian, you can still taste some Czech classic dishes, though. Of course, fried cheese remains a classic, although that dish probably betrays the whole idea that vegetarian cooking should be healthy. Other options include Kulajda, a typical Czech soup with dill, potatoes, mushrooms and a poached egg. Dill sauce or lentils with a hard-boiled egg are also quite common. In addition, we should not forget the staple of Czech cuisine: hot sweet main meals. These include dumplings filled with fruits (usually plums or strawberries), or "sisky" (similar to gnocchi) with poppy seeds.

Anyway, without further ado, here is a selection of vegetarian restaurants in Prague:

Lehká Hlava (Borsov 280/2, Prague 1) Probably the best-known vegetarian restaurant in town. Reservation is definitely recommended. In our opinion, Lehka hlava is clearly superior to its sister restaurant, Maitrea, although the latter is very popular, too. Both restaurants' menus include dishes that makes little sense to us: meaty dishes without the meat (things like fake roast with red cabbage and dumplings, or vegetable sausages). Maitrea also serves "Czech specials", so you are eating Czech dishes, originally based on meat, with meat substitutes, listening to wind chimes and flutes. Maybe it's just us. If you have to choose between the two, choose Lehka hlava. It is good but we think it's nothing to write home about in international context.

Bio Zahrada (Belgicka 33, Prague 2) A small café/bistro/shop in the heart of the Vinohrady district where local come to collect the farmers' produce they ordered. This restaurant focuses on organic and gluten-free lunches. A nice place with a small outdoor seating area with a nice selection of cakes and sandwiches.

Estrella (Opatovicka 17, Prague 1) A relatively recent entry on the Prague vegetarian scene, this place is a bit hidden but really worth a look. The daily specials are tasty, and you can see the food is made with love. Very helpful, young staff.

Secret of Raw (Seifertova 13, Prague 3) Recently opened, this small place made big waves in online circles when it opened as the first raw food eatery in Prague. A confession: we have not been there yet but a look at the menu raises suspicions: avocados, coconut and other ingredients really make it impossible to call this restaurant's food either seasonal or local. Although raw cuisine may in theory include meat, this is a vegetarian place.

Plevel (Krymska 126/6, Prague 10) Opened just a few days ago, Plevel is a new vegetarian eatery in the hipster heaven that is the Krymska street near the Grebovka vineyard on the border of the Vinohrady and Vrsovice districts. As the name of the restaurant ("weeds" in English) implies, the owners have a humorous take on the whole vegetarian scene.

Mama Coffee (Vodickova 6, Prague 1) A great place enjoyed by local crowds and families, a flagship store of the Mama Coffee coffee roasters that supplies fair trade coffee to many Prague cafes. The cafe offers vegetarian lunches and snacks that cannot deny their Middle-Eastern influence (like hummus and tabouleh dishes, bagels and sandwiches).

Mlsná Kafka (Sokolovska 29, Prague 8) Great for vegetarian Sunday brunches from 11am to 3pm, which give kids the opportunity to prepare some vegetarian food, too. The menu looks very interesting and may be appealing even for carnivores.

Beas Dhaba This North Indian eatery with self-service lunches offers good value for the money. Out of the five branches in Prague, the most convenient and the nicest is the one at Tynska street, which sports a nice summer garden. Free tap water, price is paid per weight. You should expect vegetables, legumes and rice.

Govinda One of the first vegetarian restaurants in the centre of Prague, now sporting two branches. The atmosphere is certainly oriental, with meditative soundtrack playing in the background. Again, food is paid based on weight.

Country Life We are including this in the list just because we would get lots of mail if we didn't. This chain of organic food stores is a good choice for buying groceries but we are not convinced by the food. We saw them serve "svickova with tofu and dumplings". Yes, it makes no sense. (Just that you understand: "svickova" is normally a typical Czech beef dish).

Kidó (Smeralova 22, Prague 7) This quite recently bistro quickly became a local favorite in the Letna district. Great interiors and helpful staff help building a local feel of the place. Kido serves a vegetarian lunch menu every day, allowing you to choose from a buffet of about five daily dishes, or combine them to your liking.

Have a group that includes carnivores and vegetarians who want to eat together? It's still pretty tricky to find a place that would truly satisfy both but we do have two suggestions:

Dish (Rimska 29, Prague 2) A burger joint in a list of vegetarian restaurants? Yes. The wildly popular upscale burger bistro offers two veggie burgers: caponata and falafel. We have enjoyed the former more than the latter. And the regular burgers are awesome. Coming for dinner without a reservation? Forget it.

Pizza Nuova (Revolucni 1, Prague 1) The all-you-can-eat pizza and pasta restaurant is full every evening, and for good reason. The dishes are great and the menu includes meaty and vegetarian dishes. Vegetarians may opt for the all-you-can-eat salad bar that offers many nice Italian vegetarian cold dishes, or you can choose a single dish a la carte.

Sisters (Dlouha 39, Prague 1) Since it opened in March 2014, this bistro that focuses on the modern interpretation of the Czech "chlebicky" (traditional open-faced sandwiches) has become incredibly popular among the locals. Apart from the classic ham on potato salad and steak tartare chebicek, they serve vegetarian options, too: red beet puree with goat cheese, radishes and cream cheese or celery remoulade are the favorites.