So, you’re in Prague with kids, and it’s raining. Bummer, but not the end of the world. We have a kid, too - a pesky 7yo old boy who loves Minecraft, Sprunki (if you don’t know, congratulations), and treats in any shape or form - and keeping him occupied can be a challenge. Below are some of our favorite spots.
Just a side note: while Prague is generally very kid-friendly, this is still Central Europe, a part of the world where retired curators guarding the gallery exhibitions can frown at the smallest signs of „fun“ and shush you endlessly. Sadly, that is not how our 7yo son, who enjoys everything with a strong „Zorba the Greek“ energy, rolls, so there can be friction. Just be mindful of that, otherwise you’re totally fine.
This is when we go when the weather sucks, and our son is bored.
National Agricultural Museum
One word: tractors. The basement level of the musem has loads of real tractors, but also small, push-cart-style tractors that all kids seem to absolutely adore. There is a tractor where you can add fuel, do some basic work with your tractor and so on. The upper levels of the museum are pretty fun too: the top level includes screens where you can add ingredinets and follow the guidelines to make some classic Czech dishes, you can shop for food in an in-house supermarket (kids go nuts over the price scanners), learn about recycling or hang in their gingerbread cottage. The middle levels include displays about fishing and fish farming, water circulation, forest habitat protections and so on. This is actually one fun musem.
Now, let’s get real here: you might be thinking - isn’t the National Technical Museum right next door cooler? No, it is not. While the central hall with planes, trains and automobiles is stunning, and some of the displays are cool, this is not an interactive museum and you can hardly touch anything. It’s a bit like taking your kid to a candy store and then tell them you forgot your wallet at home. Frustrating. (Maybe it’s okay for older kids who are super disciplined. Not a group our son is currently a member of.)
Army Museum
The Army Museum flies completely below the radar and was refurbished recently. The admission is free and it opens your door to visiting the awesome National Memorial at the Vitkov hill above. It also includes a slightly gamified route for kids - you have to look for cabinets with lion paws and your kids can try on Medieval helmets and swords, write a letter from the front to their families (this usually yields super funny and/or cute results), decode morse code messages and the like. It is also a museum that tells the story of a small nation in the middle of Europe trying to stand its ground, fighting two world wars and manufacturing lots of military stuff in the process. The constructivist building that houses the museum can be quite stunning, too, especially around the staircase area.
Kunsthalle
Kunsthalle is one of the reasons our JJ doesn’t think museums and galeries are a complete drag. This relatively young art space has lots of things going for it when you’re a child: first, the space itself is quite complex and a bit of a maze, which our son loves. Second, there’s a proper kids arts lab that will keep creative types occupied for… well, at least minutes, and a super cute reading corner with loads of books for children and adults alike. And their gift shop has a great selection of books and items for kids. The art exhibitions are well curated and always custom-installed into the specific space, which makes for intriguing and immersive experiences. And it’s „on the way“ - just nestled underneath the Prague Castle near the Malostranska subway stop. (Side note: some locals see the museum, owned by a local coal baron family, as artwashing. It does not pass our threshold for a boycott, but it’s fair that you know.)
Movie at Bio Oko
Going to the movies is a thing in the Czech Republic: given the quite massive movie industry (Czechoslovakia was called „Hollywood of the East“ during the Cold War), Czechs love watching movies as much as they do love making them. Which also means that Prague is full of movie theatres, ranging from modern IMAX multi-screen palaces to tiny art-house theatres tucked away in small streets. Our favorite for kids is the Bio Oko in the swanky Letná district: founded in the 1930s and now run by the good people of the Aero Kina group (think Alamo Drafthouse meets Criterion), Oko is a super popular neighborhood place to hang out (it includes a well-stocked and frequented bistro/bar) and see a movie: they gutted the bottom part of the seats and replaced them with beach chairs, bean bags and the like, which means the smallest ones can run around and wiggle and misbehave during their children matinee programs, and no one will raise an eybrow. And they run movies in English, too.
Childrens Museum
Seated in the former Federal Assembly Building/National Museum (which is cool for kids, too, with its Hall of Minerals, or the prehistoric life displays, and a stunning building in its own right), the Childrens Museum is an interactive area where kids learn about various facets of life through game and interaction. There’s no particular theme - the museum covers anything from history to photography to environment - but it is a place that will keep your little ones occupied for… 90 minutes, because that’s the time they sell tickets for. Booking a ticket for a particular time slot online is a must, and they sell fast, so do yourself a favor and do it now. And if you can’t get a ticket, there’s always…
Bohus tip: Public Transport Museum
Trams. Loads of trams. This little depot of Prague’s Public Transport company has been repurposed to show the various trams that cruised the streets of Prague since the late 1800s. This is a cute little museum that kids seem to really enjoy, and it is conveniently located in the Střešovice district, just a 10-minute walk behind the Prague castle, and a 10-minute walk from Villa Müller on the other side. And if it’s raining hard, just catch a direct tram to Bio Oko or Kunsthalle, or to the subway that connects you to everything else.